Find a little bit of Italy at Fresco Grill

"I want to make sure customers eat with the eyes first."

-Leone D’Arcangelo

It is not an accident or luck that Fresco Grill & Wine Bar in Bonsall has been a popular spot for over eight years. This elegant restaurant has enjoyed success because the proprietor, Leone D’Arcangelo, has an innate talent for creating culinary masterpieces – the dishes not only have a marvelous flavor, but the presentation is exquisite.

He is also a hands-on owner – making sure that the diners meet nothing but excellence when they step across the threshold. But, he won’t tell you any of that. This humble man explains that the music and ambiance draw diners to his door. Yes, the music is soothing and the Tuscan atmosphere inviting, but I think the success is mostly due to the fact that Chef Leone is Italian and saturated with a culture that celebrates food and the joy it generates.

Chef Leone gathers traditional recipes from Italy, does a bit of tweaking, and makes them unique to Fresco Grill. Sometimes he just creates his own recipes. But, tweaked or original, the results are the same – extraordinary.

Leone D'Arcangelo was born, and lived much of his life, in Sperlonga, Italy, which is on the Mediterranean Sea. He immigrated in 1999 and founded the Bonsall establishment in 2006. In addition to the Bonsall restaurant, he owns one restaurant in Italy, and another in Carlsbad.

In 2013, Chef Leone was honored with the award, "Top Chef – People’s Choice" at the sixth annual So-Cal Chef Open. The same talent and expertise that propelled him to the top spot is what keeps his Bonsall establishment thriving.

Leone not only enjoys food preparation, but enjoys visiting with his customers. He especially enjoys the Bonsall location because there are many "regulars" among the clientele.

"They are like family," he said.

Fresco’s lunch menu is extensive, and includes dishes that you would not expect to find at lunch, including lobster and salmon. If you prefer the more elaborate dinner-type entrées, but don’t like to go out at night, lunch at Fresco Grill is the perfect choice.

When Leone takes off his "owner’s hat" and puts on his "chef’s hat," extraordinary things happen in the kitchen.

"Simply outstanding" is how I would describe the "Shrimp Cocktail" dish created by Chef Leone. Not found on the menu – it is served as a special. Four fresh jumbo shrimp are grilled, then served with cocktail sauce on a bed of organic mixed greens. But, it is the fennel and creamy avocado that make this cocktail soar above the average. Fennel leaves are used as a garnish, but the bulb of the plant is also an important piece of the dish itself. The fennel is cooked, then glazed with sweet glaze. When the fennel, avocado and shrimp are swirled as one in the cocktail sauce, it lends an ethereal quality.

"Carpiccio di Bue," is an appetizer that consists of thinly sliced beef tenderloin (filet mignon), topped with arugula, shaved parmesan cheese, lemon vinaigrette, capers and pepper. Cheese lends a salty flavor and the pepper and capers give a smidgeon of a bite.

Expertly prepared Manila clams and tomato sauce give the "Linguine e Vongole," its wonderful flavor. The sauce consists of chopped tomatoes, fresh basil, onions, and garlic. The clams are not steamed, nor are they cooked in water. Both of these cooking methods cause the clams to lose flavor. At Fresco, the clams are sautéed in olive oil, fish broth, basil and garlic until they open. The salty sea flavor is pungent when the clams are cooked using this method.

As I was packing up my camera and recorder, Leone said,"You can’t leave yet – you haven’t had dessert." The desserts are created in-house. I was given an oven- warm chocolate soufflé served with spumoni ice cream, fresh strawberries, and cannoli cream. Delicious! All I can tell you is that I am very glad I didn’t leave before dessert!

In the Italian culture enjoyment of food is a high priority. The Fresco Grill is an extension of that culture. Be prepared to not only enjoy your meal, but become fully immersed in the experience.

Fresco Grill and Wine Bar is located in Bonsall's River Village at 5256 S. Mission Road. For further information, call (760) 631-1944 or visit www.frescorestaurants.com. Enjoy live music every Wednesday and Friday night from 6 p.m. to close.