Journey to the tip of Baja

“I cannot rest from travel: I will drink Life to the lees…for my purpose holds to sail beyond the sunset, and the baths of all the western stars until I die.”

— From “Ulysses” by

Alfred Lord Tennyson

Looking for a destination fairly close to home yet a culture jump away? Try a winter’s journey to Cabo San Lucas, México, at the tip of Baja California. Maybe it isn’t quite “beyond the sunset,” but it’s surely a place to “drink Life to the lees.” Alaska Airlines can whisk you to Cabo nonstop from San Diego in just one hour and fifty minutes.

If you are like me and haven’t been to Cabo in twenty-two years be prepared for a shock. The sleepy fishing village with its dusty streets, grizzled fishermen and barefoot children is probably still there but is overshadowed by a plethora of resorts. Cabo is still engaging, but in a different manner. Its strengths now lie in the quality of the resorts and restaurants, but it has sadly lost some of the rustic charm. However, the natural beauty of the white sand beaches and craggy formations of El Arco have remained constant.

I hear that the golf and fishing are both marvelous, but since this was a “girlfriend” vacation with one of my closest friends from high school, we opted for a “Five S” holiday: Swimming, Sunning, Shelling, Snorkeling and Satiation!

Kathy Greer left her husband at home, I left my cat, and she and I met at the busy Los Cabos airport. The airport hawkers selling timeshares were annoying, but fortunately the word “no” means the same in both Spanish and English. Kathy and I opted for the bus as a conveyance for the twenty-five or so miles into town because we weren’t adventurous enough for a taxi.

We were pampered like queens at the Pueblo Bonito Rosé, an opulent hotel with marble floors, lavish pools and Medieval Spanish antiques located on Medano Beach. Our luxurious suite with its cool tile floor, white columns and balcony lent a perfect view of the pool area and the Sea of Cortez. At sunset the lavender and apricot sky would light the waves with a rich glow.

The lounges at the beach area encouraged idleness and loafing, which are perfectly acceptable pursuits in Cabo. “Please move my umbrella a bit more to the left… I’d like another drink, gracias… sí, another shrimp cocktail, por favor…” The courteous staff at the hotel seemed to be able to anticipate our every need.

We were so enthralled with the Rosé’s terrace restaurant overlooking the Sea of Cortez that we dined there frequently. Each night a different banquet buffet was presented on several lavishly decorated tables. Fisherman’s Night was a medley of sea fare including fresh Cabo bass and lobster. Marvelous Chicken Mole was the star of Méxican Night and scrumptious sweets such as Tres Leches Cake, Flan and Cinnamon Empanadas made dessert selection a bit difficult.

The shopping was fun and the silver and Méxican art pieces were reasonably priced. We taxied to the extensive Puerto Paraiso shopping plaza, but I have to admit I had more fun bargaining with the ubiquitous beach vendors!

The only tense part of the trip was a somewhat bouncy glass-bottom boat ride in choppy water out to where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez. Sea lions lazed on the rocks, but I was distressed to find that the sea life had waned somewhat in twenty-two years. I don’t know if it was caused by pollutants, but the once teeming marine ecosystem now has some serious imbalance issues. However, whether you are swimming, snorkeling or just letting the pulse of the warm waves rock you, there is still much to commend about Cabo’s waters.

On my last evening in Cabo I sat on the shore with the pungent sea air swirling about my cushioned lounge while the setting sun left a golden glow on the damp sand. Eventually, the stars appeared, blinking white over the dark monument of El Arco. I smiled with renewed vitality, as I knew I had achieved my goal of “sailing beyond the baths of all the western stars.” Or at least some of them…