Lessions from my cooking school

During the fall my thoughts always return to the days of when I taught cooking. First in was at established cooking schools and then later at my own endeavor: Judith Bell’s Cooking Kitchen. What fun!

Wonderful delicious recipes that fill several three-ring binders remain as a tangible heritage. From time to time I take those binders from the shelves. Leisurely I page through them. Can you believe that I actually “taste” the recipes as I read them? I also remember with gratitude the wonderful people who filled those classes season after season… year after year. How blessed I am.

Today I highlight some of my favorites, beginning with a spectacular casserole that aptly features fall’s best: eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes. Just writing it today makes me vow to myself to make it soon! It is not quick and easy. It takes time and is worth every effort. The melding of flavors and textures rewards the person of patience. And, it is a casserole that begs …nay, requires… making ahead. In fact in Provence it is served tepid as often as hot.

The recipe was part of a class in International Cooking of the Provinces of France. We made a traditional quiche, salad, cake and even chocolate mousse. At the conclusion of class we’d sit down to dine and it was as if we’d arrived at an exclusive three-star restaurant. My students ate smugly knowing that they would be able to recreate the same menu for family and friends. And, so can you… just give it a whirl. Inspired by the South of France, this casserole features fall favorites: eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes.

Ratatouille (Provencal Eggplant Casserole)

½ lb. eggplant

½ lb. zucchini

1 tsp. salt

¼ cup olive oil

1 ½ cups thinly sliced onion

2 green bell peppers, sliced

2-3 tbsp. olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 lb. (3-4) ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and juiced

Salt and pepper

3 tbsp. minced parsley

1-2 tsp. fresh oregano, thyme, marjoram, basil, etc.

Peel eggplant and cut lengthwise into slices ¼-inch thick, 3 inches long and l inch side. Scrub zucchini and cut into slices about the same as the eggplant. Place vegetables in a bowl, toss with salt and let stand 30 minutes. Drain and pat each slice with paper toweling to dry.

Sauté eggplant, one layer at a time, in olive oil for l minute on each side to brown lightly and quickly. Repeat with zucchini, adding more oil if needed. Remove to a side dish.

In the same skillet, cook onion and pepper slowly in 2-3 tbsp. olive oil for about 10 minutes or until tender but not browned. Stir in garlic and season with salt and pepper.

Slice tomatoes into ½-inch strips. Lay over onion and peppers. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over low heat 5 minutes. Uncover, baste tomatoes with the juices and raise the heat and boil for several minutes or until juice has almost evaporated.

Place one-third of the tomato mixture in the bottom of a 2 ½-qt. fireproof casserole. Sprinkle with 1 tbsp. parsley and a bit of the fresh herbs. Arrange one half of the eggplant and zucchini over the tomatoes. Cover with one half remaining tomato mixture and 1 tbsp. parsley with a bit more of the herbs. Top with remaining eggplant-zucchini mixture, finish with tomatoes and remainder of parsley and herbs. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Uncover, baste with juices and taste for seasoning. Add salt and pepper as needed. Raise heat and cook, uncovered, about 15 minutes, taking care not to scorch the vegetables. Set aside uncovered. At serving time, slowly reheat. Or serve cold. Serves 4-6.

There are dozens… maybe more… recipes and versions of chocolate mousse. Here is a classic recipe from my cooking school that my students adored.

Classic Chocolate Mousse

4 eggs, separated

¾ cup sugar fine sugar

¼ cup orange-flavored liqueur

6 oz. semi-sweet baking chocolate

4 tbsp. strong coffee

1 ½ sticks unsalted butter, softened

Pinch of salt

1 tbsp. sugar

Whipped cream, optional

Beat egg yolks and super fine sugar until mixture is thickened, pale yellow and when a whisk or beater is lifted, the mixture forms a ribbon. Beat in liqueur.

Set mixture over water that is not quite simmering and continue beating until mixture is foamy and quite hot. Remove and beat over cold water 3-4 minutes or until the mixture cools and is the consistency of mayonnaise.

Melt chocolate with coffee over hot water. Remove from heat and beat in butter a bit at time. Beat the chocolate mixture into cooled egg yolk mixture.

Beat egg whites with salt until soft peaks form. Beat in sugar until stiff peaks form. Stir one-fourth of the beaten egg whites until the chocolate mixture to lighten. Fold in remaining beaten egg whites.

Turn into serving dish and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight.

Serve garnished with a piping of whipped cream or pass whipped cream with the mousse. Serves 6-8.

Here’s a simple recipe that will help you learn to make your own egg rolls using refrigerated packaged egg roll skins.

Shrimp-filled Egg Rolls

1 med. head cabbage

2 ribs celery, sliced

1 lb. cooked and cleaned shrimp

2 tbsp. cooking oil

1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. msg (optional)

¾- 1 tsp. sesame seed oil

15 egg roll skins

1 egg

Vegetable oil for frying

Sauces as desired

Shred cabbage as for coleslaw. Combine with sliced celery. Bring 2 qt. water to a boil. Drop shredded cabbage and celery into boiling water. Cook just until cabbage is tender. Remove with a slotted spoon to a strainer and drain well.

Chop shrimp.

Heat 2 tbsp. cooking oil in a large skillet. Add shrimp and salt. Add drained vegetables and msg, if using. Toss to heat. Remove from heat to a shallow platter. Mix in sesame seed oil. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Beat egg with l teaspoon water.

Place egg roll skins on a dry wooden cutting board. Trim corners (save for soup). Place small handful of shrimp-vegetable mixture on egg roll skin about l ½ inches from edge nearest you. Fold this edge over filling. Paint eggs of the egg roll skin with beaten egg. Fold edges toward middle. Paint topsides of these edges with egg. Roll toward far end. Set aside and repeat with remaining skins and filling.

To fry: preheat vegetable oil (minimum depth in cooking utensil needs to be l inch) to 350-375 degrees. Place egg rolls in hot oil and fry until slightly golden. (For a very crispy egg roll, fry only until slightly brown, remove from oil and drain. Just before serving, fry again until crisp and brown.)

Served with desired sauces, such as sweet and sour, hot mustard or b-b-q sauce.

Here’s a richly flavored pudding made in the classic manner to fill pastry… or homemade meringue shells. For garnishes: a plump strawberry, grated chocolate, whipped cream, chopped nuts… or all of these!

Crème Anglaise

(Classic Vanilla English-style Vanilla Pudding)

¼ cup sugar

4 egg yolks

1 tsp. cornstarch

1 ¾ cups boiling whole milk

1 tbsp. vanilla

Gradually beat the sugar into the egg yolks. Continue beating until the mixture is a pale yellow and forms a slowly dissolving ribbon when the beater is lifted. Sift cornstarch over mixture.

Beat in cornstarch.

While beating the egg yolks, very gradually pour on the boiling milk in a thin stream so that the yolks are slowly warmed. Pour the mixture into a heavy enamel or stainless saucepan and cook over moderate heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, just until the sauce thickens enough to coat the spoon. Do not let the mixture exceed 165 degrees or mixture will curdle.

Remove from heat. Beat sauce to cool. Strain through a fine sieve and add vanilla. Cool further by placing mixture over cold water and stir frequently. When mixture has lost its heat, cover and chill. Makes about 2 cups, about 4-6 servings. These are easy! However, they are best made when the humidity is low, as they will gather moisture from the air and never bake dry. So, just choose a bright, dry day. Fill with a homemade pudding or sweetened fruit.

Meringue Shells

3 egg whites (1/3 to ½ cup)

¼ tsp. cream of tartar

¾-1 cup sugar

Beat egg whites with cream of tartar until frothy. Gradually beat in sugar until mixture is very stiff and dry and there are no sugar granules remaining. Drop ½ cup meringue mixture on parchment paper (or heavy brown paper) on baking sheet. Using the back of a spoon, shape each mound into a shell. Bake in a 275-degree oven about 50 minutes or until dry and done. Allow to remain in oven until cool. Remove and fill as desired. If not using immediately, wrap loosely in waxed paper.