Tea Lane – A culinary window to the Victorian era

Sequestered in the leafy Jackson Square Courtyard is Tea Lane – a calm amidst the flurry where diners can delight in teas and cuisine reminiscent of Victorian England. Elaine Lasater and her husband, Terry, are the proprietors of this Fallbrook establishment.

The décor takes on a Victorian flair with antiques, Victorian-inspired wall coverings, chandeliers and lace curtains. This intimate restaurant with an air of sophistication glows with twinkling white lights. Subtle classical music enhances the soft mood of the restaurant and the air is tinged with a faint scent mélange of tea, savories and sweets.

Although the restaurant’s menu is heavy with traditional tea foods, there are some surprises that might not be found on typical English tea room plates – items such as zesty persimmon relish or fresh, creamy avocados.

Welsh Rarebit, assorted sandwiches and desserts are tempting and can be ordered off the menu, but Afternoon High Tea is the crown of Tea Lane. (This elegant tea is available by reservation or as space permits.)

Having taken High Tea in various restaurants in England, I was looking forward to the Tea Lane experience – without a ten-hour flight.

The Afternoon High Tea is like a mosaic — a work of flavorful art. Elaine fashions the sweets and savories by paying careful attention to each essential element. When available, she uses fruit grown in their own grove.

Armed with a "tea menu" that details the nuances of each tea, I approached the "Tea Sniffing Wall," stocked with 51 varieties of tea – some quite exotic. After sniffing several teas, I chose the English Breakfast, which had a more intense flavor than most English Breakfast teas. I also selected the Wild English Rose, made with black tea and rose petals, which had a marvelous rose aroma and flavor. Then, I selected my china teapot and Royal Albert teacups. If I had really wanted to drink tea in style I could have donned one of the whimsical hats!

After the tea selection, I was served my choice of soup or garden salad. I chose the salad, which was served on a bed of baby greens with feta cheese, walnuts, pomegranate seeds and an amazing house-made pomegranate dressing. Elaine makes this dressing by squeezing her own pomegranate juice, then mixing it with honey, olive oil, and vinegar.

When the porcelain three-tiered plate was placed in front of me, I knew I was in for a treat. Each tier held delicate surprises, and Elaine took time to explain each item. One bite of my first tea sandwich and I was whisked away to Victorian England.

I enjoyed an assortment of sandwiches including white bread with cucumber/crème cheese, and rye bread with ham salad. An open-faced avocado sandwich topped with Elaine’s own persimmon relish had undertones of chili for a bit of a kick. My favorite sandwich was made with moist house-made pumpkin bread filled with an amazing cranberry-pecan-chicken concoction. Moving up to the second tier, I tasted the baked scone which was extremely light compared to most scones I have tried. Raspberry jam and mock clotted cream enhanced the flavor. Elaine serves house-made mock clotted cream because genuine clotted cream is made with unpasteurized milk.

The top tier held mini desserts including a mildly tart, but marvelous, Key Lime Pie made with limes from the Lasater’s grove. Elaine’s moist and flavorful Pudding was made with persimmons, dates, pecans and raisins.

Throughout the entire meal, the musical ping of the porcelain cup as it was set gently in the saucer was repeated… again and again… because each sip of tea intensifies the experience.

New to the tea business, Elaine and Terry attended a seminar at the World Tea Expo in May of this year. However, their love of teas began before that. Elaine enjoyed a career as a teacher prior to opening Tea Lane, but had been hosting tea parties for her four daughters and their friends for many years. That is where, I assume, she perfected the art of the tea sandwich.

Terry’s grandparents lived in England and would bring him teacups and teapots when they would visit him in America. When Terry visited his grandparents, they would have tea three times a day. Thus began Terry’s lifelong love of tea. When he and Elaine married, she was awestruck by his extensive collection of teacups and teapots.

Tea Lane is a window to a world where charming ambiance is reminiscent of a Victorian tea room; and the inspired cuisine definitely opens a culinary window to another era.

Tea Lane is located at 119 North Main Avenue, downstairs in Fallbrook’s Jackson Square. Reservations may be obtained by calling (760) 835-1852 or by emailing [email protected].

*Tea Lane also offers children’s teas. *Christmas High Tea will be held Dec. 19 from 5 to 7 p.m. with room for only 20 diners. Entertainment will be Christmas music from the group Tea Rose Consort. Please call or email for reservations.