Sweet Potato Pie

Pumpkin pie gets the top billing at Thanksgiving, but I have a soft spot for sweet potato pie. Some people expect it to have a starchy texture, but the secret to making a really good one is to roast sweet potatoes with their skins on – protecting the flesh from drying out in the high heat –until the starches have broken down and deeply caramelized. The end result is a deeply satisfying custard pie with a molasses-y tang.

Makes one 9-inch pie

2 medium sweet potatoes

2/3 cup (145 grams) packed light brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 eggs

3/4 cu...