Pala Mission – 208 years of history

Traveling east on California SR-76, the scent of wild grasses and an occasional whiff of flowers drift through my open windows. The winding road is lined by trees, including sycamore and pepper trees. An eagle passes overhead.

My destination is Mission San Antonio de Pala, or Pala Mission, which is located on the Pala Band of Mission Indians Reservation. The majority of the members are Luiseño and Cupeño. Pala Mission is the only California mission that actively ministers to the Indigenous people for whom it was built.

Pala Mission was founded by Padre Antonio Peyri as an "asistencia" or sub-mission to Mission San Luis Rey de Francia. In 1816 – 208 years ago – the adobe structure was built with sun-dried adobe bricks made from local soil. The ceiling beams are fashioned from cedar trees felled at Palomar Mountain, which is approximately 20 miles away from Pala. In 1899, an earthquake caused the roof to collapse, but it was restored, and the mission was saved.

The campanile, or bell tower, is white-washed and framed by extraordinary cypress trees with gnarled and twisted trunks. The adobe chapel and the bell tower suffered devastating damage in 1916 due to torrential rains, and it took about a year to rebuild.

Although the structure of the rebuilt bell tower is not as old as portions of the mission that were built in 1816, the replica tower was fashioned from the same adobe that had been water-logged and turned to mud by the rain. It is the same mud, but the new bricks were created 100 years after the first adobe bricks were made.

The bell tower was restored 108 years ago, however, the bells, cast in Mexico, survived the deluge, and were hung in the rebuilt tower. For 208 years, the bells have been ringing on special occasions. A sign near the bell tower states that the bells are rung "to summon the faithful to Mass."

They are also rung as a tribute to the deceased, when a tribal member has passed away. Because there are specific rituals involved with bell ringing, the bell ringer is a tribal member who is specially trained for the task. A sign posted near the tower asks visitors to respect the local custom, and "to refrain from attempting to ring the bells."

The thick adobe walls of the mission chapel foster a cool and inviting atmosphere. Near the altar, flames from white candles flicker and glow in clear glass vessels. The terra cotta floor tiles are scarred and worn from over two centuries of footfall. Look toward the ceiling to see a hand-carved wooden crucifix fashioned of Bestardo wood from Michoacan, Mexico. Adobe niches for holy water are set in the walls of the chapel entrance. In this hallowed place, guests may sense the tranquility generated by over 200 years of worship.

The cemetery is as old as the mission. Stone crosses and headstones, as well as wooden crosses, denote the graves of not only the Indigenous people, but also Spanish pioneers. Several of the graves are unmarked, and one ragged wooden marker was missing the crosspiece. Someone must know who is buried in one of the unmarked graves because flowers were carefully placed in the soil surrounding it.

In the original west wing of the mission, visitors will find a shop with a wonderful selection of religious gifts. A peaceful courtyard garden is accessible through the gift shop, where visitors are greeted by shrines, statues, and a garden vibrant with flowers. Delicate branches of peppertrees drape over the pathways, and palm trees stand tall beside the terra-cotta tile paths.

The museum, on either side of the gift shop, holds an extensive collection of ancient arrowheads, spearheads, manos, and metates. In glass cases, visitors will find many handmade items, including beaded artwork, baskets, pottery, and intricately woven pieces. At the back of the museum is the chapel altar dated 1916. The museum is a fascinating step back in time, as is the entire mission.

So, roll down your car window a bit, and breathe in the scent of grasses and flowers as you head toward Pala Mission. But remember, when you enjoy the artistry of the 208-year-old bells in the 108-year-old tower, please don't ring the bells.

Mission San Antonio de Pala

11798 Pala Mission Road, Pala, California

Parish Office Number: 760-742-3317

(Please call for chapel, museum, and gift shop hours.)